Dear Shirley,

 I have both of your videos and I cannot tell you how much they have helped me.  I have a question about the welt pocket video.  In the video you talk about placing a welt pocket on a skirt in front of the side seam for more comfort.  How do you draft the pocket bag.  I do  not own a pattern that has a welt pocket especially one that is on a slant.  I would appreciate any suggestions you might have. 

Shirley  I use the side pocket pattern and straighten the side seam edge.  It should extend up into the waist line; cut four pocket bags on the straight of grain.   Also, you had mentioned possibly making another video or DVD to update your book.  You website does not list anything.  Your book is my definite sewing companion. 

Shirley, Unfortunately that probably was a dream that so far I have not been able to realize  

 Thank You,   Marie

 Subject: Question re Sewing

 Hi Shirley…thanks to your book on Fitting, I had a true epiphany yesterday. For months I’ve been struggling with the Patternmaster Boutique software, thinking that it would be a quick fix for fitting problems…but I guess I’m not savvy enough to use this program, because all I’ve gotten out of it is fits!!!

 Yesterday I sat down with your book, and it all came together…I have two questions for you, though, if you would be so kind:

1)       If a pattern has a dropped or extended shoulder, how do you know where the “true” shoulder point is for shoulder point reference purposes? The patterns really don’t say how much of a drop there is…

Shirley You don’t know but you can check it by measuring your  shoulder or the shoulder on your basic. 

2)       I have a rounded upper back. When making changes to the pattern for a back-yoked blouse, I’m guessing that corrections are to be made to the yoke, right? 

Shirley: Right the correction should be on the yoke.  Do you have the Plumbline kit – Weighted plumb lines can help you establish your shoulder point and your jewel neckline as shown in the fitting book. 

 Shirley, thanks so much for being there for us ladies…I’m going to be ordering your other book this week…I have your two videos on collars and buttonholes, and use them as a wonderful resource….

 Thanks for your time, Shirley.

 L R     Irvine, CA

Virginia came for a dress and pants basic and adjusted a blouse pattern after we did the fittings and has sent me several e-mails since keeping me posted on her progress. 

Hi Shirley

Keeping you abreast (great word isn't it?) of my progresss.  Got the sleeves in and topstitched one armhole, didn't like the way it looked, took it out.  Now on to the buttonholes and buttons and 5/8" hem.  With my new Bernina I can hold the button up to the screen dial the circumference to match the button's.  The machine remembers and voila all the bh's will be the same.  Great technology.  I also got a button sewing foot with the machine and it has a vertical bar in the middle that gives a shank, (much like the old toothpick idea), so I am going to use it and forget sewing by hand.  I will put in the hem though by hand.  Not easy material to work with but I managed.  Overall pleased with my sewing, not perfect but okay.  AND I LOVE THE FIT, THANKS TO YOU SHIRLEY SMITH.  Needless to say I wish you lived next door.

Virginia Tucson AZ

Hi Shirley,

The blouse is hanging in my closet "ready to wear" and I am very, very happy with it.  The fit is great, my sewing pretty good and I did all the buttons by machine and it was fast, and I hate to sew on buttons.  Things are hot here in Tucson, but I am sure very pleasant in White Salmon.   It was an inspiration to be with you and it lingers in my memory. 

 Thanks again  Virginia  Tucson AZ

Hi Shirley,

Can't wait to make those one seam pants with welt pockets.  Do the pockets go horizontal to the waistline?  Can they go vertical to the seamline? 

Shirley, In the one seam pant the welt pockets go vertical to the waist line.

Hi Shirley,

 I am thinking about making a bias skirt (Butterick 3971) and wondered about making a better waist facing and finishing.  The pattern calls for 1/8" grosgrain (which I can hardly believe, it is so narrow).  Is this a good way or is there a better one?

Shirley  I have a bias skirt that I put a narrow 5/8inch waistband on that has been very satisfactory.  I don’t think you would like a waist facing but it the skirt were lined (mine is) I could have put a straight seam binding in the seam to keep the waist from stretching.  I was afraid the lining might scoot up over the waist line and the narrow band has been nice. 

 

Joan called and we had a good conversation.  She was most interested in your approach to fitting, which of course you knew.  Guess she wanted an "eyewitness account".  Anyway, I ended by telling her that after I had been to you, I would never go anyplace else for fitting.  To me, that said two things--you met my needs and ended my search and now it was up to me to apply what I learned because you had done such a great job of showing me what a good fit looked like and how to change a pattern to get it.

Virginia

Shirley Thank you much for your time with Joan, I really appreciate it and would like to post your remarks on my Web Page with your permission. 

Thank you for your quick reply.  I saw you on Susan Kahlje’s TV show and really understood (for first time!) how to do the collar.  I love sewing on silk charmuse and got good advice from you.

 You’re probably not the person to ask, BUT… do you think the books provide sufficient details and photos so that I could understand your techniques?  If not, then I might go ahead and buy the video and have it converted to a CD somewhere… sure someone does this type of thing!

Shirley  The books have lots of photos and are very detailed but I also have the collars video on a DVD.

Again, many thanks,

Patti Arthur

Naples, FL

Dear Ms. Smith,

I am familiar with your area of the country having lived in Corvallis OR for 5 years.  I have been trying to make a pants pattern to fit for many years without success.  The hundreds of dollars that I have spent on computer programs, pattern drafting systems and fitting classes have been to no avail.  I would very much like to come to your studio and take advantage of your talents.  My schedule is quite full until mid August.  Please let me know when you would be available and what airport to fly would be most convenient.  With that information I will make the arrangements to come.

 

I would like to be involved in both the fitting workshops but my confidence has been affected by all the past failures.  I can give you specifics about my fitting issues and let you decide what would be best.  I am a better than average seamstress. The fitting classes I have attended have made me able to fit others but not myself.

Thanks for your time.

 

After the fitting session:

The patterns, fabric, dress and pant"s basic along with your book, patterns are sitting in my sewing room and I am eager to get started.  It took my body and brain a while to readjust to being home, but I think I'm there.  I can't thank you enough for all you did for me.  There is no return I can make except my gratitude.  You truly met all my expectations.  I left your beautiful sewing studio completely satisfied that I found what long I had been searching for.  And it was very hard to say goodbye.  Also thanks for your book inscription.  I do so appreciate being able to "pepper" you with questions.  Right now I have a couple percolating in the back of my mind.  Just knowing you are there gives me confidence.

Sincerely,BK

Albuquerque, NM

 

Dear Shirley,

 I’m back to sewing and getting patterns fit for the girls. . I had to order the dress shell patterns over the internet.  As soon as they arrive I’ll be able to start applying the skills you taught me and the measurements I’ve taken.  My husband almost threw away my weighted cord the other night.  He didn’t know what the funny string was for.

 

Question: My problem right now is too much fabric along the back seam line between the waistline and the back crotch curve.   The crotch is fitting and the pants legs hang nicely from the hips. There is about ¾” (3/8” on each side of the seam) in a horizontal wrinkle. The space between the two crotch curves seems to be the right amount- not too tight.  Taking in the extra fabric along the back seam line seams to work but I have a nagging feeling that someone told me once that you “Never mess with the center front or back seams” That someone wasn’t you but I thought I’d better pass it by you before making that change instead of a better alteration.

Shirley, you can certainly change the center front or center back seams of pants. And often you must to achieve a good fit.   I just had to take in all my slacks and most of the changes were done to the inseam and the center back and center front seam when I had no fly front opening. 

 Sincerely,BK

Albuquerque, NM